Forêts durables pour mode durable aux Nations Unies à GenèveSustainable Forests for Sustainable Fashion at the UN in GenevaComment mieux que par la joie aborder des problématiques sérieuses ?
Les
Nations Unies - UNEP et la Food and Agriculture Organization- FAO
associent mode et environnement pour parler de durabilité dans
le domaine de la mode le 21 mars 2014, à Genève. Le
jour de la forêt- et celui du printemps, quelques personnalités
audacieuses des Nations Unies et de la FAO, avaient invité les muses
pour toucher de leur baguette le berceau de la "mode durable".
Bien
que ce soit un évènement aux implications lourdes,
environnementales, économiques et sociales, il était culturel et
festif. Danse, beauté et conscience se sont réunies autour de la
dernière née de la mode, dansée, honorée par chacun, et en
particulier les femmes...Avant de reprendre les bancs du Palais des
Nations pour entendre des interventions de haut niveau face à un
parterre tout aussi prestigieux.
Au
sein de l’Union Européenne, l'Industrie textile et habillement correspond à 220.000 entreprises qui
emploient 2,5 millions de personnes et génèrent un chiffre
d’affaires de 190 milliards d’Euros. L'impact des fibres
utilisées est au coeur du sujet.
Ce jour là l'approche est créative et très ...« enracinée », car l'objectif est de parler de la forêt, et de l'avenir. Les fibres de bois sont une proposition alternative face au coton, ou aux fibres synthétiques et surtout peuvent être exemplaires/innovantes dans la gestion durable des ressources utilisées dans la fabrication de textile. C'est la mode durable qui est mise en avant, l'arbre qui cache la forêt. L'arbre a servi de trame - des racines aux fruits, The tree – from roots to fruits. Comme carte mentale c'est mon modèle favori... on y a parlé de risques, de gestion, de certification, de production, de chaîne technico-commerciale pour la production textile.
de l'exploitation irresponsable et non durable ?" Et Dominique Reeb place la mode comme fer de lance d'un changement de paradigme : "La mode peut-elle améliorer la conscience générale (…) et contribuer ainsi à conduire les forces du marché vers des activités durables ?" (Photo : de gauche à droite Andrea Bellini director of the Centre d’Art Contemporain Genève Paola Deda actual chief of the UNECE/FAO timber and forestry section Mario Boselli President of the Italian National Chamber of Fashion Jean Rodriguez head of Information Unit)
L'éthique passe avant tout par cela : pouvoir mesurer, dans toutes les directions et dans tous les "royaumes" -animal, végétal, minéral,...- la portée des actes commis, la responsabilité que nous en avons... On ne peut qu'approuver et se joindre à cette intention, à l'aune des difficultés environnementales que pose encore le coton industriel dans l'environnement. On garde l'espoir que les leçons du passé pourront, comme les danseurs, les étudiants, les femmes et hommes d'affaires, les gardiens de la nature former encore et encore des spirales, proches du symbole de l'infini ou des bourgeons de fougère...et se réjouir sous le ciel clair. Marie-Laure Ehmiel Drouet, La Chapelle France. 28 mars 2014 J'en profite pour vous renvoyer aussi vers cet article de Jasmin Malik Chua, paru le 11/ 01/13 Jasmin Malik Chua , sur Eileen Fisher Eileen Fisher, Patagonia Pledge to Protect Endangered Forestsdans l'excellent site Ecouterre, (http://www.ecouterre.com/mission) promu par Vivienne Westwood elle-même. La Madone, l'égérie, la magnifique styliste absolument luxueusement contemporaine. ABSOLUTE LUXURY !http://www.ecouterre.com/eileen-fisher-patagonia-pledge-to-stop-sourcing-from-endangered-forests/ | ||||||||||||
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| Forests for fashion – Fashion for Forests, on 21 March, was an even held to celebrate and advocate the linkages between sustainable fashion and sustainable forest management, and was organized by UNECE/FAO on the occasion of the International Day of Forests. Forests and fashion are related in many different ways. Many cellulose fibers produced from wood pulp, such as lyocel and tencel, are already used in the fashion industry because of their properties. They can be an excellent alternative to synthetic textiles, cotton or wool, as their manufacturing process is often more environmentally friendly. At the same time, fashion also can drive the unsustainable use of natural resources, but the “level of risk depends on how it is managed,” said Mr. John Scanlon, Secretary General of CITES. He also pointed out that given the world population (7 billion people) and the massive volume of international trade connected to fashion, mismanagement could be potentially devastating and “wipe out a species in very little time”. " A paradigm shift "
This paradigm shift is synthesized by the Maestro Michelangelo Pistoletto, one of the leading figures of the Italian Arte Povera movement, in the symbol of the Forests for fashion – Fashion for Forests conference, the “Third Paradise Tree”. This design metaphorically describes the area where the sphere of nature and that of the artificial come together, defining a new world where nature thrives and humankind lives sustainably. "Clothes made of forest fibers and wood accessories designed by 15 emerging young designers"Forests for fashion – Fashion for Forests was structured around a series of initiatives including, an art performance; a conference with high level speakers drawn from the public and the private sector; the opening of a fashion exhibit created with clothes made of forest fibers and wood accessories designed by 15 emerging young designers; and a dance performance by choreographer Marthe Krummenacher.Among the high-level keynote speakers for the event there were Maestro Michelangelo Pistoletto and Mario Boselli, President of the Italian National Chamber of Fashion.
Rob
Busink, Chair
of the FAO European Forestry Commission
This
conference starts from forests and their sustainable management, and
explores how the use of forest products, like innovative wood textile
fibres, can contribute to more aware and responsible production and
consumption choices for clothing and fashion. It follows the supply
chain path by presenting the type of fibres that can be derived from
wood and what a sustainable production cycle for this type of fibres
involves.It
then moves to the perspective of fashion and explores how the fashion
business can embrace sustainability, by using and promoting
sustainable raw materials and innovative production technologies and
how it can facilitate the change, given its communication power and
influence on lifestyles and societal behaviors.
It
also discusses what are the drivers of change for sustainability in
fashion and concludes by reflecting on what sustainability means to
the last and essential components of the supply chain, the designer
and the consumer.
The
innovative and provocative question that this conference explores is
whether a sustainable industrial supply- and value- chain can allow
for a more responsible management of natural resources, such as our
forests, making it easier to resist market-driven decisions of
deforestation; this post-modern approach designates the symbol of
Pistoletto, “The Third Paradise”, as paradigm of an intelligent
balancing act between natural resources and human prosperity.
Paolo
Naldini: “Can
a sustainable supply chain in the fashion industry be a driving force
for protecting forests, and natural resources in general, from
irresponsible and unsustainable exploitation?”
Dominique
Reeb: “Can fashion
enhance general awareness on sustainability issues and therefore
contribute to drive market forces towards sustainable businesses?”
For
more information please visit:
http://www.unece.org/forests/forestsforfashion
Photo
gallery at: www.flickr.com/photos/98046700@N04/
United
Nations Economic Commission for Europe
Information UnitPalais des Nations, CH-1211 Geneva 10, Switzerland Tel.: +41 (0) 22 917 44 44 Fax: +41 (0) 22 917 05 05 Email: info.ece@unece.org
The
designers and artists participating :
Cecilia Granara, Italy, Artist Claudia Chianese, Italy, Artist and Jewels Designer Doris Kloster, United States of America, Artist Erica Stefani e Damien Beal, Mosaics, Artist Flavia La Rocca, Italy, Women collections Florinda Guadagna, Jewels Designer Laura Strambi, Italy, Designer YOJ BIO Margherita del Balzo, Switzerland, Artist Marita Huurinainen, Finland, Shoes Marta Antonelli, Fashion Designer Marta Forghieri, Italy, Women and kids collection Natures of Conflict, Austria, Women collection Roberta Redaelli, Italy, Stylist Serienumerica, Italy, Knitwear Silvia Massacesi, Italy, Accessories Silvio Betterelli, Italy, Women collection Stefano Ughetti, Italy, Men’s wear Tiziano Guardini, Italy, Haute couture, Women collection | ||||||||||||
vendredi 28 mars 2014
"Forest for Fashion Fashion for Forest" - UNEP Genève 21 mars 2014
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