Les Disparus d'Iguala, Mexique, novembre 2014
Les images parlent d'elles-même. Taxco de
Alarcon, on essaie de faire "comme si de rien n'était", de vivre
encore comme d'habitude, de sourire
encore.
Mais "comme d'habitude", les
mexicains savent serrer les dents et baisser la tête, avant de laisser le volcan exploser.
Calmes, "doux, mais pas stupides"
comme me l'avait dit un jour un chauffeur de taxi.
Leur colère, quand elle explose est alors un torrent de lave sans retenue, échevelé, guttural, implacable, n'ayant d'égal que leur dignité bafouée.
Parce que si les pauvres ici n'ont parfois rien, ils conservent toujours
un haute idée de la justice. Nombreux sont ceux qui veulent la paix.
La corruption rampante est une
plaie qui s'infecte depuis des décennies.
Corruption et trafics de toutes sortes avaient
un temps soit peu diminué, et à l'aéroport, alors qu'il y a 20 ans, un
produit intéressant dans une valise avait toutes les chances d'être dérobé au
contrôle douanier, cette fois-ci, c'est un exemple de probité qui m'a été donné
par les douaniers, les policiers et le personnel de l'avion lorsque j'y ai oublié
un petit sac. Ici, il y a 10 ans, quand on voulait maudire quelqu'un on lui disait : "que les flics, les médecins et les avocats
viennent chez toi !".
Mais voilà… un sale moment à passer : je
suis dans ce pays "en ébullition" comme le disent les informations
mondiales. En route pour le travail qu'Akabyax commence avec les tisserandes. J'en reparlerai plus en détail dans
quelques jours.
La population est en colère, manifeste cagoulée, le palais régional a été brulé et détruit par des profs et des étudiants. Des journalistes ont été molestés par les policiers et réclament qu'on les laissent faire leur travail.
Des milices communautaires se sont organisées
dans le pays et clament leur ras le bol et leur dégoût de la corruption et de
la violence. Sur la route qui mène ici,
trois postes de contrôle (casetas) ont été "pris en otage" il y a
48 heures par des gens du peuple. 14 000 réservations de tourisme ont été
annulées dans l’État de Guerrero. Une sorte de guerre civile à l'air de se
fomenter entre le peuple et les "corruptos", narcos trafiquants, policiers qui ont parfois encore des attitudes de
petites frappes dans la rue.
Les journaux parlent des bougies qui veillent les disparus, manifestations pacifiques qui apparaissent "mystérieusement" dans certaines villes, on ne sait pas qui les place.
....
Au marché, ce matin, on
change de station de radio quand les nouvelles égrènent les difficultés, 37
kilos d'opium trouvés dans une camionnette…les portables et internet sont au
ralenti, le Wifi est en black out, "on dit" que des messages de manifestation générale se passent
entre les gens, mais que la surveillance virtuelle est en route.
Ce soir, je suis là, au cœur de la vie, sur
la place Borda de Taxco, le zocalo. Certains veillent les morts, à la lueur de
43 bougies portant les 43 portraits des disparus, à la mémoire des 43 étudiants massacrés à
Iguala ; pendant que de l'autre côté, à quelques mètres, une musique
typique de mariachi fait se trémousser des couples, courir des enfants avec des
ballons, le cœur de la vie. Il pleut des rires de gosses, il vole des colombes
dans l'ombre, il caquète des centaines d'oiseaux noirs dans les arbres, sur la
place de Taxco.
Missing in Iguala, Mexico, November 2014
The images speak for themselves. Taxco de Alarcon, trying to do "as if nothing had happened" to live again as usual, smiling again.
But "as usual" Mexican know how to bite the bullet and head down, before leaving the volcano erupt.
Quiet, "soft, but not stupid" as I had been told once by a taxi driver.
Their anger, when it explodes then become a torrent of lava without restraint, disheveled, guttural, relentless, that can only compare wih their violated dignity.
Because if the poor here may have nothing, they still retain a high idea of justice. Many people want peace.
Rampant corruption is a plague that has been infecting for decades.
Corruption and trafficking of all kinds had decreased a little, and at the airport, while 20 years ago, an interesting product in a suitcase was likely to be stolen in customs control, this time this is an example of probity that was given to me by customs, police and the staff of the plane when I left a bag on it. Here, 10 years ago when you wanted to curse someone you told him : "the cops, doctors and lawyers come to you".
But then ... a bad time to go, I am in this country "boiling" as the global information say. En route to the work Akabyax begins with the weavers. I will discuss in more detail in a few days.
The images speak for themselves. Taxco de Alarcon, trying to do "as if nothing had happened" to live again as usual, smiling again.
But "as usual" Mexican know how to bite the bullet and head down, before leaving the volcano erupt.
Quiet, "soft, but not stupid" as I had been told once by a taxi driver.
Their anger, when it explodes then become a torrent of lava without restraint, disheveled, guttural, relentless, that can only compare wih their violated dignity.
Because if the poor here may have nothing, they still retain a high idea of justice. Many people want peace.
Rampant corruption is a plague that has been infecting for decades.
Corruption and trafficking of all kinds had decreased a little, and at the airport, while 20 years ago, an interesting product in a suitcase was likely to be stolen in customs control, this time this is an example of probity that was given to me by customs, police and the staff of the plane when I left a bag on it. Here, 10 years ago when you wanted to curse someone you told him : "the cops, doctors and lawyers come to you".
But then ... a bad time to go, I am in this country "boiling" as the global information say. En route to the work Akabyax begins with the weavers. I will discuss in more detail in a few days.
Forty-three students are gone, it seems that the mayor of Iguala, linked to narco trafficking had ordered their murders last September. Massacred and burned at the stake, which lasted 14 hours. It happens in the state of Guerrero (Warrior). Its coast: Acapulco, one of the jewels of the Mexican myth, one of the crossing points of the international drug.
The public is angry, hooded manifest, the regional palace was burnt and destroyed by teachers and students. Journalists were beaten by police and demand they let them do their job.
Community militias were organized in the country and proclaim their pissed and disgusted with corruption and violence. On the road leading here, three checkpoints (casetas) were "taken hostage" 48 hours ago by men of the people. 14,000 tourism bookings were canceled in the state of Guerrero. A kind of civil war seem to foment between the people and the "corruptos", narco traffickers, police officers who sometimes keep behaving like lowlifes on the street.
Violence but also the greatest dignity, like this evening of the 14th November on the Zocalo in Taxco.
Newspapers talk about candles that stand vigil over the missing, peaceful demonstrations that appear "mysteriously" in some cities, we don't know who places them.
....
At the market this morning, we change the radio station when the news list problems, 37 kg of opium found in a van ... mobiles and internet are slow, WiFi is blacked out, "they say" that messages about general protest pass between people, but the virtual monitoring is underway.
Tonight, I am here, in the heart of life, square Borda de Taxco, the Zocalo. Some are holding a wake for the dead in the light of 43 candles bearing the 43 portraits of the missing in memory of the 43 students killed in Iguala; while on the other side, a few meters away a typical mariachi music is making couples jiggle, children running with balloons, the heart of life. It's raining laughter of kids, doves are flying in the shade, hundreds of black birds are quacking in the trees, on the Plaza de Taxco.
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